LONG LONG LONG WALKS ON THE BEACH

Gale force winds, infected feet, and emotional breakdowns were not on my Cami de Cavalls bingo card. 

The Cami de Cavalls, which translates to “Horse Path,” is a 115-mile trail that encircles the coast of Menorca, Spain. It was originally used in the 14th century to patrol the coast from pirates. It’s very well marked, and sort of turns into a fun game to spot the little maroon signs. When I first heard about the trail while living on the island, I knew I wanted to do it. 

I started scheming about the trip over a year ago. I pictured my mom, sister, and I frolicking through wildflower fields. We’d stop after a few hours of light walking for a fresh seafood lunch, and then take a dip in the crystal clear Mediterranean. 

As you’ll hear about soon, this isn't exactly how it went down.  

When I would tell locals here that I was planning to do the 100+ mile hike, they’d always reply with something similar. “Oh cool, which sections are you going to do?” Or, “how many weeks are you taking to do it?” I’d reply that the plan was to do all of the sections. Back to back. In 6.5 days. 

There are people who RUN the whole damn thing in a single day. Mind you, they are hard core ultra runners who train for months/years. But I assumed if they can run it in 24 hours, we can walk it in a week. 

Well, you know what they say about assuming.

DAY 1: EAGER BEAVERS.

Ciutadella to Cala Morell (27 km/17 mi)

After traveling internationally for more than 24 hours, most people like to take at least a day to rest and adjust to the time difference. My sister is not most people. 

We picked her up at the Menorca airport at noon. And we were on the trail by 2:30pm. 

We walked out my front door and officially began the hike. At the end of the road, we picked up my friend, Soomai, and her dog, Coco, who were joining us for the day. From there we meandered through the streets of Ciutadella, heading towards the trailhead. Once we reached the actual trail, we had already walked almost 6 miles. But it was day one, we were excited, and kept a brisk pace. 

Credit: anna olsen

The north of Menorca is wild and rough and isolated. It’s also incredibly beautiful.

We saw dramatic cliffs, grazing sheep, and the bright blue Mediterranean as far as the eye could see. 

When we were about half way, we thought for sure we only had a few miles to go. This was the first cue that made me realize, “dang, this isn’t going to be as easy as I thought.” 

Credit: anna olsen

6ish hours later we arrived at Cala Morell, tired and dehydrated. We were saved by Blas, who picked us up in the van, and brought us back home for the night.

My dad made whole chickens in the air fryer with mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy. We devoured, showered, and headed to bed. 

Day one, check. 

DAY 2: QUESTIONING LIFE DECISIONS.

Cala Morell to Binimel-La (23 km/14 mi)

After breakfast we loaded back into the van and headed to Cala Morell, where we ended the hike the night before. It was overcast, we were sore (well, I was sore), but still eager to get back on the trail. 

The first part of the hike was great.

Stopping to smell the wildflower fields, lots of wildlife, lunch on the beach, and incredible views. 

Credit: anna olsen

Credit: anna olsen

Credit: anna olsen

The second half of the hike also had incredible views, but was far less pleasant.

The elevation gain was brutal.

My blisters, which appeared on day one after nursing a weeks-prior ankle sprain, were burning.

Our water supply, diminishing. 

We huffed and puffed our way up, and down, and up, and down, and up again. 

Credit: anna olsen

Credit: anna olsen

Every sign we came across seemed to say Binimel-La, our next destination, 6km. We’d walk what felt like 6km, and the next sign still read 6km. When we were getting close (or so we thought), we ran into a fellow hiker who told us, “Binimel-La? Yeah, about 6km to go.” 

Finally, after those 6 mother f*cking kilometers, we made it. 

Credit: anna olsen

Our trail angels, Blas and my dad, left the van in the parking lot. We hauled ourselves in and headed home.

That night we ordered pizza and drank much-deserved beers. 

Before going to bed my sister did yoga poses with spry legs as I nursed my growing blisters and inflamed ankle.

DAY 3: STRUGGLE CITY.

Binimel-La to Arenal d'en Castell (22 km/14 mi)

The next morning Team Trail Angel brought us back to much grayer and windier Binimel-La. 

Luckily the planned route was shorter and flatter than the previous day. 

That day the north of the island continued to live up to its rough and wild reputation. It was almost hard to believe that we were walking alongside the same ocean as the previous days. One day bright blue and smooth as glass. The next dark gray and angry. 

But the views were still spectacular, despite the sprinkles and escalating winds. 

Credit: anna olsen

That afternoon we arrived in Arenal d’en Castell, where we had a hotel rented for the night. After a shower, rest, and some blister repair, we headed out for dinner.

Grilled catch-of-the-day and sardines, crispy falafel, mushrooms in copious amounts of garlic and oil, and a bottle of white wine. 

While my mom was making new friends in the hotel lobby, my sister and I headed to bed. 

DAY 4: SAVED BY THE WIND. 

Arenal d'en Castell to Mahon (35 km/22 mi)

The next morning we awoke to a gift from God: Wind. And lots of it. 

The north of the island was under a severe wind advisory. And walking along the Cami was not recommended. 

It also happened to be the longest mileage day of the hike, which was convenient. 

So, after some negotiating/pleading with my gung-ho sister, we decided to take the day off. 

We called back up Papa Trail Angel, who came in the trusty van. We drove to some of the places we would have walked along on the trail. Menorca's UNESCO Reserve (Parc Natural de s'Albufera des Grau) and a lighthouse (Cap de Favàritx). 

As we drove along the coast the van rattled in the wind. The white capped waves were severe. We saw a family biking, drenched to the bone. Although we felt a little sorry for the suckers, it made us realize we made the right choice.   

We eventually made our way to Mahón, our destination for the day. 

We went to a sporting goods store where I got myself a pair of orthopedic sandals. 🔥

Credit: anna olsen

The fashion police were appalled. My poor blistered feet thanked me. 

That afternoon we had a fantastic tapas lunch. Gildas and vermouth, tuna tartar with creamy avocado, pimientos de padrón, and fried artichoke. 

Then we went to the gin distillery for free samples. It was a long table with 20 or so different gins and liqueur where you could just help yourself!

We weren’t shy. 

After a post-gin-tasting-siesta we headed to dinner. 

We ate sushi, hot and sour soup, rice with shrimp, and something called noodles with “3 delights.” 

This quickly became our group nickname for the rest of the trip. 

DAY 5: FLAT, FINALLY.

Mao to Cala en Porter (32 km/20 mi)

The next morning the 3 Delights woke up to a bright blue sky. The day’s hike was long (about 20 miles), but flat. The sun was shining, our legs were (slightly) rested, and we were ready.

The hike that day was the sort of vibe I envisioned as I was planning the trip. Turquoise waters, wildflower fields, and leisurely stops for coffee and cerveza.  

Credit: anna olsen

Credit: anna olsen

The high winds, heavy rains, and elevation gains were distant memories. 

We meandered our way past lighthouses, down fairytale-like paths, and bright blue coves with dramatic cliffs. 

Eventually, after 9ish hours of walking, including a communication-breakdown where we mom and I got separated from my sister for the last hour, we made our way to Cala en Porter. 

Our hotel had an irresistible balcony overlooking the cove. We had a pre-dinner pizza from the Italian hotel manager, plus a bottle of wine at this fitting “3 Delights” table.

For second dinner, we went to a nearby restaurant for cherry gin and tonics, mussels, burrata, and something that I would describe as Italian enchiladas. 

Credit: anna olsen

DAY 6: THROWING IN THE TOWEL.

Cala en Porter to Cala Galdana (28 km/17 mi)

I woke up to a ballooned ankle and stinky, infected blisters. It was as gross as it sounds. 

Although the previous day was flat, it was just too many miles for my already struggling tootsies. Anna told me, “as a sister, I want you to hike with us today, but as a medical professional, I think you should take the day off.”

So, after breakfast, my mom and sister took off for the trail. I sat on the bench outside, waiting for my trail angel pickup, and feeling like a big fat loser. 

I spent the day back at home, nursing my feet, and feeling sorry for myself. No one wants to hear about that, so here are some lovely pictures my sister took from the trail that day. 

That night I drove to meet the gals at Cala Galdana. I missed the day of hiking, but they convinced me that doesn’t mean I should miss out on dinner and a nice hotel bed too!

We went to a fun little tapas bar where we ate gildas with tender octopus, a giant tomato salad, a fresh green salad, papas bravas, flaky white fish, and a bottle of red wine.

Then we went to the hotel bar where we just missed the live music. Dang!

I ordered a piña colada, which I must say, really lifted my spirits. 

DAY 7: LAST HURRAY FOR THE 2 DELIGHTS.

Cala Galdana to Ciutadella (30 km/18 mi)

Unfortunately my feet were still not up to the challenge, so once again I bid adieu to my mom and sister, and drove my sorry ass home. 

And once again I felt like a giant loser. I’m not sure why it affected me so much. I guess because I had set out to do this thing over a year prior. I spent months planning the trip, and had this very clear vision of how it was all going to go. I was annoyed that I sprained my stupid ankle playing stupid basketball at the stupid gym. And (very reasonably) I was mad at the shoe salesman who talked me into buying my stupid trail shoes.

Not to mention my mom and sister both traveled halfway across the world to do it with me! I just felt so disappointed, with a heavy dose of FOMO.

Anyways. 

That night we were celebrating Blas’ birthday. In order to not feel rushed, the 2 Delights decided to cut the hike a bit short that day. Instead of walking all the way to Ciutadella, they would end at Cala en Bosch. This turned the 18 mile endeavor into a 10ish mile hike.

Here are some photos my sister took along the way. 

That afternoon, my dad and I drove to Cala en Bosch to pick up the hikers. We went to a nearby bar for cold beers and stories from the trail. Then we all drove back to Ciutadella together to prep for the party at Blas’ brother’s house. 

Blas had dreadlocks in his rebel teen years. A fun fact I will never let him (or anyone) forget. So naturally the birthday party was dreadlock-themed.

[Insert party theme photos here, except I’ve been forbidden from uploading. 😝]

We had a blast and ate like kings. The Argentine brothers grilled up several different mouthwatering beef cuts, plus smokey chicken wings, and salads.

We finished with not one, not two, not three, but four different desserts. 

We all agreed it was the best meal of the trip. And the bar was HIGH. 

The next morning, at the butt crack of dawn, we loaded in the van one last time. This time we headed to the airport to bring my sister for her early flight. Once again, no rest day or recovery time necessary. 

I’m so very grateful that Anna made the trip, especially with the insane travel it required for so few days. She was our star navigator the whole way and master motivator when things got tough. My mom and I both decided she would make one kickass forest ranger.

I’m equally grateful and proud of my mom. I mean, how many 60-some-year-olds do you know who can walk 100 miles in a week?? She kicked my ass! Along the trail she kept the vibes high and was always ready for a cerveza break. 

And of course a big shout out to Team Trail Angel (my dad and Blas). They had our backs when we needed them along the way. 

Gale force winds, infected feet, and emotional breakdowns were not on my bingo card. But neither were free gin tastings, orthopedic sandals, and a delightful new nickname for our hiking crew.  

Today, more than a month later, and my feet are finally back to normal. I’ve done a few sections on my own, determined to finish the damn thing. Blas and I did a short section in the south near Cala Galdana, and then on my own between Cala en Bosch and Ciutadella (which is the section we all skipped to make it back for the party).

I haven’t braved the north just yet (too soon), but I will be back.

Orthopedics and all.