AN ARGENTINIAN CHRISTMAS

As some of you know, my Argentinian saga began in March 2020. I had a flight to Buenos Aires booked for March 20th. And on March 17th, the Argentina government closed the borders for all non-residents due to covid. So I waited. And waited. Went to Mexico. And waited some more.

Then, on November 3rd, 2021, after 20 months of waiting, my flight touched down on Argentinian soil. The best gift a girl could ask for 🎁 🙌 🇦🇷🎉 🎊 ❤️😀 💃 👏 💕 🥳✈️

I’m living with Blas in La Plata, a city outside of Buenos Aires. It’s an amazing house in a great neighborhood, walking distance to heladerías (ice cream shops), panaderías (bakeries), and cervecerías (breweries). There’s a farmers market nearby every Wednesday and Saturday morning. And there’s a great big park, always filled with picnic-ers, fitness classes, and fútbol. For the first time in over three years, I feel settled. And it’s feels pretty dang good! But more on that another time.

I want to dedicate this short and sweet post to our recent trip to Patagonia. We spent a week in the Río Negro and Neuquén provinces, following the “Ruta de los Siete Lagos,” more or less. I couldn’t have imagined a better way to end 2021.

We flew into San Carlos de Bariloche on Christmas Day. And since we’re in the southern hemisphere, instead of bundling up for the snow, we dressed down for the beach.

We spent the first day laying in the sun, exploring the city, and eating some classic regional dishes.

Alfajor, a classic Argentinian cookie filled with dulce de leche.

Top: Trout topped with butter and the biggest, juiciest capers I’ve ever tasted. Bottom: Tender venison goulash with spaetzle.

The next day we worked off our dinner with a hike to Cerro Llao Llao viewpoint.

But gained the calories back shortly after with a burger and beer. Balance, baby.

The next day we headed north to Villa La Angostura. We took our time, with little pitstops along the way.

Like this little beach break.

And this viewpoint of the appropriately named, Largo Espejo (Mirror Lake).

Then to stop and see the sheep smell the flowers.

And for another burger. Because why the heck not.

When we arrived in Villa La Angostura, we checked into our Airbnb and planned the next day’s adventure: A 14-mile hike to the Arrayanes Forest. Supposedly, the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Bambi.

Although the hike was long, it was mostly flat and lined with a rainbow of wild flowers.

After 7 miles and countless “Ooo! That’s a pretty one! Let me take a picture!” we arrived at the Arrayanes Forest.

Beautiful? Yes.

The highlight of the hike? No.

The award for that goes to this:

At the base of the forest, you can walk down to the turquoise blue, icy cold, insanely picturesque Largo Nahuel Huapi.

If you don’t want to walk 14 miles, you can take a boat to the forest.

Simple sandwich tasting incredible after 7 miles.

Feeling cheeky wearing my mom’s vintage Patagonia fleece in Patagonia.

After lunch, a little rest on the beach, and cleaning our dusty feet in the crisp water, we headed back for a slightly-less-pleasant, but still lovely, 7 miles.

Back at the Airbnb, we treated ourselves to these, dare I say, sexy cherries. Locally-grown and absolutely incredible.

After a relaxing, recovery day in Villa La Angostura, we got back on the road and meandered our way through the mountains to our next destination: San Martín de los Andes.

Taking advantage of the beautiful weather, we spent a day at Playa Quila Quina.

Laying in the sun, watching the wind surfers and kite boarders, eating gaucho apples, and feeding/flipping the birds.

Despite the gesture, it was one of my favorite days of the trip.

As we made our way back to Bariloche, we took a detour to Villa Traful, a little town slightly off the the beaten path. It was cold and windy. So we stopped to sit in the sun for some caffeine and carbs.

Torta Frita, like a less sweet donut. And Chipa, little cheesy, chewy rolls.

Then braved the wind to walk along the docks.

On our drive out of Villa Traful

On our last night in Bariloche, we treated ourselves to a slightly upscale Argentinian parrilla.

Provoleta: Provolone cheese cooked in a hot cast iron with spices. It’s gooey and salty and probably my favorite Argentinian food.

An assortment of grilled vegetables topped with raw parsley and garlic.

Vacío (flank steak) and Entraña (skirt steak).

The perfect cap to a week in the mountains.

Before heading to the airport the following day, we had a few hours to kill. We hopped in the car with the intention to drive the Circuito Chico, a 30+ mile loop with panoramic viewpoints of lakes and mountains.

And adorable little a-frame cabins.

But shortly after this photo stop, we were asked to turn around due to a fallen tree.

So we hopped back in the car for some unexpected exploring and made our way to Villa Los Coihues. A tiny town with a great, rocky beach and these funky birds. We sat on the beach and ate sandwiches until it was time to head to the airport.

When we arrived back late on December 31, we were welcomed by a La Plata tradition: Muñecos.

Different neighborhoods around the city come together to construct these larger than life creations out of wood, newspaper, and paint. Then, on New Years Eve, they torch them to signify the end of one year and the beginning of the next. You can see them all here. It’s completely loco and totally amazing.

I hope everyone is having a great, healthy start to 2022. Come visit Argentina when you get the chance!