Walking along a series of winding wooden bridges, stretched over the rushing brown river, I knew we were getting close when I could feel a cool mist cut through the humid air. A crowd was gathered in front of us and over top of their heads was a strange drop in the river. The closer we got, the vaster it became, like a mouth slowly stretching open. When we reached the end of the bridge, the mouth opened up wide, as if it could swallow the whole world in a single gulp.

We were face-to-face with Garganta del Diablo.

Drama aside, this was one badass waterfall. Trying to track individual droplets fall from top to bottom was nearly hallucinogenic. The mass was incredible. Equal parts power and beauty. (New nickname proposal?)

Garganta del Diablo, or “Devil’s Throat,” is just one of many spectacular waterfalls in Iguazú National Park. The Iguazú River creates the border between Argentina and Brazil, so you’re able to visit both countries for two very different viewpoints. We spent 4 days exploring, sweating, and picking our jaws up off the ground.

DAY 1. EXPLORING PUERTO IGUAZÚ

Puerto Iguazú is in Argentina’s Misiones province in the north of the country, and the gateway to Iguazú National Park. Even when we visited in September, Argentina’s late Winter/early Spring, the weather was hot, wet, and sticky. But with that came lush green forest, a mystical mist, and so many surprise rainbows.

After checking into our cute little hotel outside of the touristic center, we took a walk around the neighborhood.

We saw dozens of dogs, greenery covering most surfaces, and people going about their days. Like young boys securing glass plates in the back of an open truck bed.

We stopped into a panadería for a bag full of fresh chipá, little chewy bread balls dotted with salty cheese. One of my favorite Argentinian snacks.

Then headed back to rest up for a day of chasing waterfalls.

DAY 2. THE ARGENTINIAN EXPERIENCE

We took the public bus from the city center to Parque Nacional Iguazú. When we got off the bus it was raining, so we bought overpriced plastic ponchos from the gift shop where the sales lady told us it was the only place to buy. It turns out it was not the only place to buy; they sold them in many other places in the park and for much cheaper. To boot, it stopped raining 5 minutes after we entered the park. So hot tip, hold steady on your poncho purchases.

Inside the park there are several walking loops or circuits to view the waterfalls, all leading up to the show stopping Devil’s Throat. But even the smaller, less celebrated falls were really very impressive. The whole park gave Pandora vibes with dense greenery and unfamiliar plants covered in dew.

We stopped at every viewpoint, each more impressive than the last.

Many times we found ourselves on the top crest of a fall, the river water rushing beneath our feet, with only a grid of metal bars keeping us safe.

After navigating our way through the swarms of other tourists and dodging the bursts of icy cold mist coming from the falls, we found our way to the edge of the railing to peer down into the Devil’s Throat. We ended the day here, gawking at the volume of water passing by each second.

DAY 3. RIVER CRUISE AND TRES FRONTERAS

The milky brown Iguazú River, which divides Argentina and Brazil, merges with the crisp blue Paraná River, dividing Paraguay with both Argentina and Brazil. This convergence creates Tres Fronteras.

We took a boat cruise to get a closer look and to relax on the river. We got to see some more surprise waterfalls, a retired cruise ship, and others enjoying the water.

Post-cruise we had some fried empanadas, each with a different filling of either fish, beef, or chicken, plus an aperol spritz to wash it all down. Then we moseyed our way back to the hotel to rest up for more waterfalls.

DAY 4. THE BRAZILIAN EXPERIENCE

To get to the Brazilian side, we hopped back on the city bus. It brought us to the border, waited while everyone got their passports checked at migrations, then directly to the Parque Nacional Iguaçu. Easy peasy.

The differences between the two counties, even with such close proximity, was so apparent. The language and currency, of course, but even the infrastructure and style changed so dramatically. One wasn’t better or worse, just different, and I remember feeling surprised by the sudden switch.

When we arrived at the first park lookout we were greeted by a panoramic view of the falls. It was so cool to experience the same setting, but from an entirely different perspective. The Argentina side allows you to experience the intense power of the falls, while the Brazilian side highlights the collective beauty.